The Karakul hat industry in death throes

KABUL (Pajhwok): The Karakul hat industry, a distinctive symbol of Afghan culture, is now in decline. Once widely worn, the cap’s use has dwindled markedly, with many artisans abandoning the trade.

The craftsmen, who remain in the business, having fallen on hard times, are appeal for support to ensure the preservation of the industry.

In the heart of Kabul, near the Shah-Do Shamshira Mosque, Karakul pelts once hung prominently. Numerous shops in the area used to produce various traditional Karakul hats, waistcoats and other garments – all integral elements of Afghan culture.

This neighbourhood was once famous for the Karakul trade and during King Mohammad Zahir Shah’s reign, a dedicated exhibition for this craft was held.

However, the situation has now changed, only two tailoring shops specialising in the Karakul craft still exist. One of them is run by 62-year-old Ahmad Ahmadi, who inherited the trade from his forefathers.

Worried about the future of his business, he says years of cultural encroachment have allowed foreign goods to dominate the local market. Traditional Afghan industries like the Karakul hat are being neglected, he regrets.

Ahmadi said: “Karakul is an ancient form of headwear, worn even by kings in the past. But now, this industry is facing an existential threat. Only two shops remain in Kabul and if they also shut down, the craft will vanish entirely.”

While walking around the city, this reporter looked for someone wearing a Karakul hat. After a long search, he finally spotted a man, but he declined to speak.

Qudratullah, 64,  a resident of Kalola Pushta locality, has worn the Karakul hats for many years. Talking about Karakul stirred memories of earlier times.

He recalled how the hats were traditionally worn at celebratory events and a man without it was once considered unfit for marriage.

He added: “Karakul hats were mostly worn by the affluent. Poor people couldn’t afford them. Government officials and those in power frequently wore them. Now, although poorer people can afford them, hardly anyone dons such caps and the craft is slowly dying.”

Historically, the Karakul industry served not only the domestic market but also had international value.

However, due to lack of market demand and government support, the industry is now on the brink of extinction.

Economist Abdul Nasir Reshtia wants the government to pay special attention to the craft by arranging exhibitions, offering financial support and finding access to international markets.

He believes if such steps are taken, Karakul could once again become a proud and enduring symbol of Afghanistan’s economy and cultural heritage.

“Unfortunately, in past years, the government’s neglect led to the decline of this industry. Now is the time to organise international exhibitions to revive this craft and encourage new investments. This would also strengthen the livestock sector and rescue our heritage from collapse.”

Although the Karakul hat industry is barely surviving, some tailors are still striving to keep the craft alive. Yet, they admit doing so alone is beyond their capability.

Pajhwok Afghan News attempted to obtain comments from the Ministry of Commerce and Industry (MoCI) regarding the current state of the Karakul industry, but received no response before the publication of this report.

kk/mud